This is week 8 of our yearlong #freepermaculture course
What are “zones” in a permaculture system?
They are patterns of human use. The zones start with yourself, your personal patterns, and what you do as a daily practice. From there, they expand out into your home, garden, neighborhood, watershed, and extended community, until, by the time you get to zone 6-ish, where you have no control over anything that happens, the zone has become a sector. Sectors are patterns of uncontrolled influences, and we’ll talk about those next week!
Here’s a primer on zones in a permaculture system
Zones don’t have hard lines between them. There is edge, crossover, and change. As an observation tool, you can use zones to look for flaws in your design, and also to evaluate what’s working well. As a design strategy, zones are a super powerful way to make choices about where to place new components in your system.
- Zone 0 and/or 00 (depending who you ask): the heart of the project, including the designer and their all-day-every-day activities.
- Zones 1-2: Visited every day or every other day, home, work, and personal spaces that need frequent maintenance and provide steady yields.
- Zone 3: Decreasing in frequency of use, and lower needs in terms of maintenance, but still relatively central to the system.
- Zone 4: Season use, infrequent visits, niche purposes; often a shared space on the edge of your system that bridges the gap between your personal site and the larger community in which you live.
- Zone 5 and beyond: wild areas, unmanaged; perhaps you go there and plant native seeds, or clean up trash. Or maybe you just go there to observe and learn from nature. Or maybe, you don’t go there at all.
And here’s another layer of information, in a video excerpted from the certificate program. Here, faculty member Crystal Stevens gives an overview of zone mapping in the home system.
Zone mapping calls into play these principles, among others:
- Relative location; place components in positions relative to the use of those components, and relative to their relationships with other components.
- Stacking functions; a component placed in the correct zone, relative to its function, will be available to serve other functions in that zone as well.
- Make the least change for the greatest effect; if you have an old dead car in the middle of zone 1, it will be much easier to move that car to a more appropriate zone, than it would to try and move all of your zone 1 activities to a different area.
- Work with nature, rather than against it; zone mapping will help you determine which patterns of human use can be shifted, and which are more firmly set (and should thus be designed around.)
- The edge is where the action is. Once you get a clear sense of where the center of each zone is, you’ll be able to find new, unique opportunities in the spaces between the zones.
Remember our class on permaculture principles? See how many more of those you can use with your zone mapping.
Base Mapping: the germination of your design project
If your goals and ethics are the seeds of your permaculture design project, then your base map is the sprout!
As a landscape designer, you should be able to draw a map that is reasonably to scale. Later in this course, you’ll analyze sectors, vision social patterns, learn to identify keypoints, and so on, and apply this information to the multiple layers of your design.
But for today, just focus on your base map: a 2-dimensional, to-scale aerial view of your site’s boundaries and all of the immoveable components therein.
The base map might seem like a simple thing, but it can still be quite challenging to create. Indeed cartography on any scale can come with a steep learning curve, so be patient with yourself! If your first attempt at a base map is all funky and out of proportion, don’t worry about it! Just make another one.
- (As mentioned above): refer back to our class on permaculture principles and see how many more you can use with your zone mapping.
- Create a base map of your site. Go here for lots of tutorials.
- Map all buildings, trees, boundary lines, hard surfaces–anything that is not likely to get moved during your design process.
- Once you finish the base map, make multiple copies of it, to use for brainstorming and adding multiple layers to your design. Start with a layer that maps the different zones, as they are now. Go through each zone, making notes on how you use your space now, and also visioning how you could use it differently.
- Then, as you work through the course this year, continue to add layers to your map, and continue to explore how subtle shifts in your zones can improve the efficiency and ecological integrity of your site.
Relevant Links and Resources
PWG Faculty member Crystal Stevens writes on an assortment of topics around the home system. Here are some favorite recent articles:
- Some additional methods of preserving the harvest.
- Here is an article on Probiotics, with easy recipes for lacto fermented vegetables and sauerkraut.
- Here is an article on botanical tea blends.
- Here is an article on DIY Herb and fruit infused waters using fresh homegrown herbs infused in water in mason jars.
- DIY Natural Household Cleaners. Ditch the toxic cleaners – switch to natural cleaners!
If you don’t know about the Resiliency Institute, you should. They’re an excellent starting point for suburban families.
Oregon State University offers a free online intro to permaculture course every Spring, which teaches beginner-level zone and sector mapping. In addition, many of their full-course videos can be found on YouTube, and they are well worth watching. In fact, we highly recommend you watch them all, since they have done such a good job and been so generous as to make it available to the public. We’ll link a few below, about zones and sectors. We also appreciate Andrews “decision making matrix,” which he describes in the third video. Fun!